31 March 2024
The forecast for the Holy Week predicted temperatures in Puerto Princesa rising well above 40C; to escape the stifling heat, we took an early-morning ferry to Coron, the first step on a tour of the Calamianes Group of Islands. The sailing time was about 12 hours in a comfortable 2Go vessel and we can recommend it as a very viable travel option to Coron.
Coron Town is actually located on Busuanga Island, the biggest of the four major islands of the Calamianes. We booked a day trip with Ocean Pearl, an agency situated across from our hotel, The Bacuang, and for just 1000 PHP/p.p., we revisited the Green Lagoon (for some snorkelling), Kayangan Lake (actually situated on Coron Island), Atwayan Beach (for lunch), Las Islas de Coral and CYC Beach.
The next day, we made a 90 minute boat trip to Culion Island, lying to the south-west of Coron. Known as the “Island of No Return”, Culion is famous (or infamous depending on your point of view) as the biggest leper colony in the Philippines. It was established by the American colonial regime in 1906. Previously, lepers had been shunned by society, receiving no treatment and having to fend for themselves. Here, brought en masse to Culion, they were housed and cared for by sister nurses while doctors worked feverishly to find a cure for this debilitating disease. At one time, the colony had over 7’000 patients.
It was however only in the 1980’s that a cure was finally found, the MDT (multi-drug therapy), including two drugs developed by Novartis and subsequently offered free of charge by my old employer to the WHO (World Health Organization). The fascinating history of the colony is housed in a museum, beside the impressive new hospital, and we were shown around by a pastor guide who narrated the story of patients and their carers, some of whom sacrificed their lives in doing so. A humbling experience.
Close to the hospital you can also find an old Spanish church and fortress with stunning views. Culion has a very nice, relaxed vibe and we enjoyed our short stay there. It is absolutely worth a visit, far from the hustle and bustle of Coron.
We hopped on a small boat early the next morning for a two hour sailing north to Salvacion, situated on the north-west coast of Busuanga Island. It was a very pleasant trip in the morning calm, as the little boat weaved its way around the many Calamianian islands en route, including Chindonian, Marily and Lamud.
We were picked up by a 4x4 in Salvacion and brought north to Miley’s Restobar, a hotel run by an old friend of Mylene’s from Roche, Mila and her husband. The vista from their hilltop location is breathtaking. Complete with swimming pool, good food and service, Mila’s hospitality and a cooling sea breeze, it was the perfect spot to relax in. We also met a young Danish couple there, Frederika and Thomas, with whom we had a great time, including going on a fishing expedition with some local fisherman (what a tough job that is) and a karaoke evening at Mila’s place that was really a lot of fun.
All too quickly it was time to return to Coron for the ferry back to Puerto. It was a short but thoroughly instructive and enjoyable trip which proved to us once again that Palawan has much more to offer than just El Nido and Coron; there are many more enchanting places out there just waiting to be discovered.
Comments