Melbourne – “and the winner is ….”

18 August 2023

The discovery of gold in Victoria’s Central Highlands in 1851, attracting thousands of hopeful prospectors from around the globe, transformed Melbourne, which had been considered up to then a rather shabby outpost on the banks of the Yarra River.

The fortunes made on the goldfields soon trickled into the city, causing hotels, coffee palaces and ornate theatres to spring up. By the start of the 20th century, the city of wide European boulevards and fine civic buildings could be described, without irony, as “Marvellous Melbourne”, a jewel of the British Empire.

Melbourne’s prosperity was further enhanced by the success of the state’s wool trade. The influx of money and people allowed Victoria to petition for independence from New South Wales, and Melbourne soon became Australia’s major financial and cultural hub, a position it held until the 1950s when Sydney began to challenge its pre-eminence.

Today, the two cities remain locked in a perpetual beauty contest, rivalling with each other across the arts, culture, architecture, gastronomy, leisure and sport. We made our own comparison and name our winner at the end of this post.

Arts and Culture

“The notion of Sydney society is a contradiction in terms,” once quipped the late, great comedian Barry Humphries. Melbourne’s sense of cultural superiority is well-entrenched, and probably justified. Where Sydney is brash and suntanned, Melbourne is pale and interesting, with a distinctly Central European sensibility – fed, no doubt, by the many refugees who fled here after the Second World War.

Live performance, especially theatre, classical music and modern dance, is the lifeblood of Melbourne, and there’s even a jazz scene. Most of the touring blockbuster shows, such as Moulin Rouge and The Rocky Horror Show, also have their Australian run here (we did see Elvis in Sydney but it was hardly a blockbuster).

Then of course, there is also the street art scene in Melbourne, one of the most vibrant and important in the world. Sprayed, stencilled alleys like the city centre’s Hosier Lane are must-see sights.

Melbourne edges Sydney on this one.

Food and drink

Melbourne is considered the unrivalled food capital of Australia. Like all big cities, it has its fair share of soggy pizzas and dodgy kebabs, but the overall quality of food and service here is astonishing. Melburnians are passionate about their food, but not wedded to any particular cuisine. French, Greek, Korean, Chinese, Spanish and Mexican are all equally popular and often given a local twist.

Unlike downtown Sydney – which largely empties after 6pm – Melbourne always seems to be teeming with people drawn into the city to have a cold beer or queue outside their favourite eatery for a table. Each evening people meet up at Federation Square, the closest thing Melbourne has to an Italian piazza, before heading off to Chinatown, the Southbank or Docklands.

To really appreciate Melbourne’s deep attachment to fresh produce, it’s worth spending a couple of hours at the magnificent Queen Victoria Market, as we did, with its covered fruit and vegetable market and grand Meat & Fish Hall.

Melbourne’s famous coffee culture owes much to Australia’s post-Second World War immigration boom, which delivered expert roasters, and espresso machines, from Italy. A myriad of laneway cafes feeds Melbourne’s insatiable thirst for coffee – although tea is making a minor comeback. Check out the Hopetoun Tea Rooms for a proper old-style high tea, served in proper china.

Melbourne shades it here again.

Sights, shops and hotels

Supercharged by the Victorian gold rush, Melbourne was able to build on a grand scale, creating imposing structures such as Flinders Street Station, Parliament House and the State Library of Victoria.

However, Melbourne’s most revered landmark is not its muddy river, but Collins Street, a splendid, tree-lined shopping boulevard which stretches from Parliament House to Docklands.

The main retail precinct radiates out from Bourke Street Mall and includes Myer and David Jones department stores, plus a newer complex of shops and cafes that occupies the old GPO building.

However, we preferred the sense-tingling sights and awesome retail outlets of Sydney on this one.

All-round atmosphere

Unlike Sydney, which is a chameleon city, Melbourne feels permanent and much older than its 188-year history. The grand neo-classical buildings, wide boulevards and slow-moving trams set it apart from other Australian cities, and it’s fair to say that Melburnians value tradition and continuity far more than their Sydney cousins.

With no surf beaches or million-dollar harbour views to distract them, Melburnians seem much more focused on the actual texture of their city, treating it as their own urban playground rather than just a place of work.

Climate plays its part too. Melburnians are an indoors type, which may explain why people here have more time to watch a play, browse in a bookshop or linger over a meal.

Conclusion

Two beautiful cities, each with its own very distinct vibe and personality. Sydney scored highly on its natural attractions, such as beaches and for its relaxed vibe, while Melbourne has a more dynamic arts scene, fantastic cuisine and offers a more subtle, urban experience.

As a counter to all that culture, sport events in Melbourne are also absolutely huge, be that the Aussie Rules finals, a cricket test, Formula one or the Australian Open.

And beyond Melbourne’s pretty city grid and stately suburbs lay vineyards and rolling hills, quaint bay beaches, a spectacular coastline and the crashing Southern Ocean. It was time for us to head off there ourselves.

Oh, and the winner? Sydney edged it for us, but it was very, very close… sorry, Melbourne!