13 November 2024
Dubai seemed like the perfect place for a short stopover on a trip from Asia to Europe I had already been there briefly many years ago but had not seen the Old Town then.
So, I booked a room at the charming Mazmi Casa, right on the creek, in the so-called heritage district, far from the futuristic architectural wonders and shining towers of modern Dubai. The origins of the city are in fact here, as a fishing, pearling and trading port; the area is full of maze-like alleyways of stone and gypsum, iconic windtowers and Bedouin-style buildings restored to their former glory amid the ruins of old forts.
I had arrived quite late in the evening at the airport and had found the small boarding house with some difficulty; I walked from the closest metro station through a maze of several souks, running the gauntlet of the overzealous vendors there.
Any qualms I had had about choosing this location were quickly forgotten the next morning as I was served a delicious breakfast on their terrace, overlooking the creek.
Traditional wooden taxi boats - abras, each seating up to 20 people on narrow benches criss-crossed the calm waters with merchants and fisherman in their traditional dhows. What a wonderful panorama it was that lay before me.
On the other bank of the creek I could make out the Gold and Spice Souks; to my left was the Al Fahidi historical district and to my right lay Al Seef, an area of almost 2km along the banks of the creek. Beyond that, the gleaming towers of modern Dubai could be seen
I was eager to begin exploring... and in doing so during my brief stay there I discovered the authentic charm and traditions of this ancient Arabian trading port.
My verdict? It was well worth the detour.
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