28 March 2023
We had been pre-warned of Singapore’s reputation for rules and old jokes on the subject abound: it should be renamed Signapore - there are so many posted instructions on what to do/not to do everywhere - or that it is a “fine city”, in that there is a fine for even the smallest transgression: not flushing a toilet, selling chewing gum, littering: don’t ….smoke, feed the birds, spit, jaywalk, eat or drink on public transport, carry flammable goods, urinate in the lift, graffiti, make a noise after 10pm, use someone else’s Wi-Fi.. and so it goes on.
To be fair, we saw little of that: yes, the signs abound and some do seem a little over the top but in reality, they are hardly that important to ruin a holiday. We did not see one single policeman in five days (although I was once followed at a discreet distance by a robotic Certis security guard when guilty of loitering outside the National Gallery, looking for my way). At least, there is full transparency on what can be done or not done. Then again, if you are looking for a walk on the wild side, you are in the wrong place…
The truth is that many people are attracted to Singapore exactly because it is so clean and efficient, punctual and tidy. It is a law-abiding place where your chances of running into trouble as a tourist are slim: a kind of Asia-lite. As midlifers, happy to sacrifice seat-of-our-pants thrills for an easy time of it, at least on this trip, Singapore works.
Singapore’s big draws include its food, culture and architecture – the soaring steel and concrete monoliths of central Singapore can be seen from almost everywhere, and are instantly Instagram-able.
However, not far away from these and other symbols of 21st century Singapore, such as the Marina Bay, the centrepiece of the city’s successful urban transformation, remnants of the old Singapore can still be found. These neighbourhoods bear testament to the island’s multi-ethnic past where under British colonial rule, Chinese, Malays, Indians and Arabs lived, toiled and traded together to lay the foundations for what modern Singapore has become today.
Kampong Gelam is the nucleus of Malay life in Singapore. At the heart of it lies Arab Street, home to the historic Sultan Mosque. Once owned by an Arab trader, the area proffers a kaleidoscope of textiles, spices and handicrafts from well-preserved historic shophouses. We arrived there during Ramadan and as the sun was setting, the whole place was buzzing and the air was full of delicious odours.
Chinatown is a trace of Singapore’s early Chinese migrants. Along New Bridge Road, street-side stalls hawk local-style barbecued meats, Chinese sausages and souvenir shops. On the South Bridge Road is located Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple, Sri Mariamman, as well as Jamae Mosque, the oldest mosque in the city.
The Peranakan Museum delights with its vivid display of costumes, porcelain, furniture and artefacts and offers an excellent induction into the rarefied world of Peranakans, descendants of Chinese settlers in the Malay archipelago, depicting a cultural evolution from the 15th century to the present day.
Before going to Tekka, Singapore’s busiest wet market, we stopped at Arts Village, a small area filled with art galleries and enlivened by eye-catching street art. Then we headed over to Little India’s busiest and oldest temple, Sri Veeramakaliamman, which dates back to 1881.
The variety of the food is remarkable: whether you are grappling with sticky satay in the street, or having a quick snack in a mall or fine-dining on something Michelin-starred (see the separate post on the Odette). Yet, beneath this “crazy, rich” pomp and glam, Singapore remains a melting pot of new and old.
Although one of the most densely populated cities in the world, it is possible however to leave the hustle and bustle behind you. For example, Gardens by the Bay is a 250-acre nature park in central Singapore whose attractions include two cooled conservatories housing plants from around the world: there are other quiet corners to relish too, public parks abound. The best of these is the Botanic Gardens, founded in 1859 (the city’s only UNESCO World Heritage site) and full of meandering pathways framed by lush greenery.
The most famous resident of Singapore, Sir Stamford Raffles first set foot in Singapore 200 years ago, kick-starting the modern era of its history. There are many monuments and places dedicated to his memory and none more so than the five-star rated Raffles Hotel. The building itself is exquisite and a superb example of Singapore’s colonial past but unfortunately our experience there when we booked their High Tea one afternoon was a huge disappointment. The food (sandwiches, scones and pastries) was bland and the service, non-existent.
Singaporeans are known to take shelter from the heat and humidity or frequent thunderstorms at one of the mega malls along Orchard Road, Singapore’s very own Champs-Élysées: a three-mile-long stretch housing more than 22 swanky malls and six department stores, showcasing the world’s most exclusive brands. Many malls along the street have also been gilded with architecture awards.
Better still was the cultural trip to the Asian Civilisation Museum. Set in the neoclassical Empress Place Building by the historic Singapore River, it explores traditional aspects of pan-Asian culture, religion and people through exhibits of more than 1,000 artefacts – including porcelain figures, bronze sculptures, woodwork, prints, textiles and ornaments – housed in 11 thematic galleries. One of the major highlights was the Ancestors and Rituals exhibit, which showcases unique and ancient artefacts from remote Southeast Asian communities. Another highlight was the Tang Shipwreck exhibition, proving that China was already mass-producing for the rest of the known world as far back as the 8th century.
Finally, we must also mention two further historic colonial buildings, the National Art Gallery, set in the beautifully restored former Supreme Court and City Hall, and the National Museum, which ditches staid exhibits for lively multimedia galleries that bring Singapore's jam-packed biography to vivid life. It's a colourful, intimate journey, spanning ancient Malay royalty, wartime occupation, nation-building, food and fashion. It also offers free tours in English.
Our short stay in Singapore was over but there was still one more amazing experience awaiting us as we jumped into the taxi - Changi Airport. This could be the most relaxing airport in the world. We may have been in Terminal 4, reserved for low-cost airlines, but it felt like a first-class lounge. Everything, from the check -in through to the immigration controls and security check, was fully automated and hassle-free.
It has also become a destination in its own right, following the opening of Jewel Chang Airport Terminal. A S$1.7 billion mixed-use complex boasting more than 280 shops, and including the 131ft Rain Vortex, touted as the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, surrounded by a multi-tiered garden of more than 2,000 trees and palms.
There is definitely a lot to see, experience – and taste – in Singapore. It may not be too kind on your budget but it is really a unique place full of glitz, glam, history and culture and well worth a visit.
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